This is only what I remeber of Denmark and quickly wrote
down during the trip. I'm sure I've missed some details here and
there. Sorry! It's chronological, mostly.
So the idea was to cross Denmark in a day, avoiding the highways of course,
and sail for Norway the next day. With perfect
summer weather it looked like it would be a breeze.
Following the North Sea coast on the western side of the peninsula, I noticed
the abundance of Danish flags above all else. Every house had a Danish
flag. Sometimes more than one. Unlike in the Netherlands, where you need
special permission to fly the national flag, the Danes seemed to be very proud
of their country. And I immediately understood why. It's a very nice, clean
and neat country. The roads are superb, all the grass seemed to be neatly
trimmed everywhere and every house looked like the ones you see on the travel
sites. They weren't lying.
Heading north, I stumbled upon Esbjerg. I kind of planned that, I'll admit. I
also planned to grab a bite to eat there. I kind of forgot. And I also
couldn't find the monument that quickly, which is weird being that large. What
I did find was an ATM. According to the Garmin I was standing on top of one,
but I couldn't see it. So I walked into the bank, expecting the ATM to be
there. Instead I walked into the bank's office. With my helmet on, visor
down. That was a stupid idea. Everyone froze. After a minute or so, one lady
got up and walked over. She said something in Danish, so I asked if she could
speak English. She did. Kind of. "c..can I help y..you?" She showed me
where the ATM was, obviously relieved I wasn't going to hurt her. I wanted to
apologize but she ran inside before I could finish my sentence. There was a
lot of Denmark to cover so I decided to press on instead of looking for the
big, white sitting men.
The scenery that followed was absolutely lovely. Dunes and beaches, with a few
twisties in between them. I just had to make a detour every now and then to
blast through these narrow dune roads. The speed limits were much higher than
the maximum speeds I could manage, for a change. I even got the bike airborne
a few times. That little Alp sure is fun when pressed hard. Grinning all the
way of course.
There's another awesome ferry at Thyboron which I didn't want to skip. I was
waiting in line at the dock when suddenly two young girls came walking towards
me, waving their hands and shouting things. Both of them wearing bright yellow
fluorescent jackets. I didn't understand what they wanted, or that they were
waving at me for that matter. Once they got closer they probably noticed I was
another clueless tourist and switched to English. If I wanted to follow
them. Right now. As the gentleman I am, me and the Alp obliged and followed
their lead, constantly asking myself what the hell I did wrong this time, to
be arrested by two fourteen year olds. Laughing they pointed at a strip of
asphalt and it dawned on me. They were sorting vehicles. Motorcycles at the
front of course. I wanted to thank them, but they were back in their lazy
chairs busy talking about whatever girls at that age talk about.
When I thought the scenery couldn't get any better, there's Nationalpark
Thy. I felt bad for disturbing the silence. It's beautiful. Dunes, shallow
waters, low vegetation and an abundance of bird life. I didn't want to leave
that soon, but I had the northern tip of Denmark to reach within a day.
Arriving in Hirtshals in the evening marked the end of my Danish day trip. I
made it. In time even. With the best weather you could wish for. I was looking
forward to the rest of the trip. I only had to find an hotel and book a ticket
for the ferry to Kristiansand, Norway so I could
leave the next day. The first hotel I found was full. The second too. Even the
third. I sure as hell wasn't going to spend the night in that soaked tent
again. The fourth hotel was deserted. I rang the bell at the reception, but
nobody seemed to care. I heard people talking behind the door, though. I
guessed they didn't want an extra customer so I left. If my Alp was a donkey
and I had a pregnant virgin with me I would've settled for a stable. Upset I
went to the last, and most expensive, hotel in Hirtshals. They did have a room
available. At about twice the rate I had in mind. Tired of looking for a place
to sleep I reluctantly handed over my credit card. The lady smiled and evil
For that amount of money I was glad I could use one of their computers to book
a ticket for the ferry. I hoped there was some place available on the first
ferry the next morning, since all the hotels were filled to the brim. There
was, so I set out to arrive early the following morning so I wouldn't be at
the back of the line when the boarding started. I had never been on a big
ferry like this.
The following morning I skipped breakfast, grabbed my things and raced to the
ferry docks. It was completely deserted. Not a soul. I drove past the check-in
gate, circled the place a few times and noticed a man running towards me. I
thought he would tell me I just missed it. Instead he asked me why I didn't
pay for a ticket. Apparently there was someone at the check-in gate. Oops. I
handed him my reservation numbers I scribbled down the previous day and he
walked back to the gate. A few moments later he came back with a ticket and
pointed to the spot I had to wait. Alone.
An hour passed and the place started to fill up with campervans and cars. I
thought I would see some fellow motorcyclists, but I was the only one going on
board that day. I met a Dutch bicyclist who was planning to cycle all the way
up north. According to him, there was plenty of room on the ferry and I got to
the docks early for nothing. Reservations weren't needed at all apparently.
After setting sail I saw why I was the only motorcyclist on board. Dark clouds
coming from the north. The kind that makes you wonder when it's going to rain,